Hyperpigmentation – understand the cause, not just the symptom

Hyperpigmentation is one of the most searched topics in skincare – and also one of the areas where the most misunderstandings exist. Many people believe that pigment spots are merely a cosmetic problem that can be removed with a single cream or treatment. The reality is more complex.

Dark spots occur when the skin's pigment cells (melanocytes) produce too much melanin. Melanin is the skin's natural protection against UV radiation, but its production can become imbalanced – resulting in dark spots and uneven skin tone.

The three most common types

Melasma (pregnancy mask)

Hormonally induced and often appears as larger, symmetrical areas on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and jawline. Typically occurs during pregnancy, with the use of birth control pills, or hormonal changes – and is often the most persistent form.

PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation)

Dark marks that appear after inflammation – e.g., acne, eczema, irritation, ingrown hairs, or skin injuries. The marks can remain for months or years without treatment.

Liver Spots (Solar Lentigo)

Have nothing to do with the liver. They are caused by chronic UV damage over many years and are typically seen on the face, hands, chest, and shoulders. Unlike freckles, they do not disappear in winter.

Why does hyperpigmentation occur?

Rarely due to a single factor. Modern research points to five primary mechanisms:

• UV radiation – the most important cause. Therefore, daily sun protection is the foundation of almost all treatments.
• Inflammation – one of the most overlooked causes. Inflamed or irritated skin stimulates melanocytes.
• Hormones – can directly activate pigment production.
• Genetics – some individuals have a greater predisposition to pigment changes, particularly with melasma.
• Oxidative stress – free radicals from sun, pollution, and stress can stimulate melanin synthesis.

Why many pigment products don't work

Most products solely attempt to lighten the skin. However, if you only work on melanin synthesis – without simultaneously protecting against UV, reducing inflammation, increasing cell renewal, and counteracting oxidative stress – the results are often limited.

The most effective approach is almost always a combination of several mechanisms.