Many people skip sunscreen, not because they don't want to protect their skin, but because of bad experiences with it. Maybe you've also experienced the sticky feeling or breakouts? Or the annoying, tight feeling that occurs when products don't suit your skin. For those with acne, rosacea, or eczema, finding a sunscreen that actually works can be a challenge.

 

When sunscreen and sensitive skin don't mix
The biggest problem does not necessarily lie in the sunscreens themselves, but in how the finished product (the sunscreen itself) is composed. Many sunscreens, especially those with high SPF, are often quite greasy. They are often made up of oil, wax or silicone. This makes them effective against sweat and water, but they can also create a tight film on the skin. For skin that is already prone to clogging or has an unbalanced sebum production, this can be enough to cause irritating reactions.

When the skin cannot get air and bacteria thrive in the closed environment, it creates a breeding ground for pimples, blackheads and irritation.

 

Clogged pores and irritation are often a complex issue and there are many aspects to take into account. Traditionally, most of the UV filters on the market have to be dissolved in oil to work properly. This gives this slightly heavy, greasy feeling. So it is not necessarily the sunscreen itself that is the culprit in your skin's reaction, but often also the way the sunscreens are "packaged" - the way the sunscreen has to be manufactured.

 

This formulation principle also applies to mineral (or inorganic) sunscreens such as Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide – especially in non-nano form. Non-nano means that the particles are too large to penetrate the skin – they sit on top, and this can feel quite heavy, greasy and almost form a film over the skin. These – especially Zinc – can also be drying to the skin. It is a bit contradictory, but they are greasy and heavy when applied and after a few hours they have a drying effect. If you are sensitive to this kind of thing, you will get an irritated skin barrier. So you can risk initially applying a very greasy and heavy product to your skin, only to find yourself with severely dried out and sensitive skin a few hours later.

 

In terms of formulation, some manufacturers therefore lighten these heavy, oil-soluble UV filters by adding alcohol (e.g. ethanol). This will mean that the product often feels significantly lighter on the skin during application and can give a short-term matte finish. However, zinc will still be able to dry out types that are sensitive to that part - and at the same time, with the addition of alcohol/ethanol, there is a further weakening of the skin, as the skin barrier is weakened in the long term and thus increases the risk of adverse skin reactions.


When the sunscreen itself becomes a problem
For most people, sunscreen is primarily about protection against sun damage – but for people with sensitive skin, atopic tendencies or an allergic predisposition, the sunscreens themselves can in some cases become a source of skin problems. Not because the filters don't work – but because some of them are classified as potential sensitizers. This means that in predisposed people they can trigger allergic contact dermatitis or a photoallergic reaction, typically after repeated use.

One of the best-known examples is Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3). It has been widely used in many sunscreens over the years, but is now under increased attention due to its allergenic profile. Oxybenzone can cause both classic contact allergies and photoallergies – in other words, where the substance only becomes allergenic when it is exposed to UV rays.

Another group that has historically caused allergic reactions is PABA and PABA derivatives (para-aminobenzoic acid). These are rarely used in modern European formulations, precisely because they have been shown to cause a high incidence of sensitization. However, they continue to be used in some products outside the EU.

Benzophenone-4 (Sulisobenzone) and Benzophenone-8 (Dioxybenzone) – closely related to Oxybenzone – have also been seen as possible sources of allergies, especially with prolonged exposure combined with sun.

In addition, recent studies have raised concerns about Octocrylene. The substance is not classically known to cause allergies, but there have been reports of contact dermatitis – particularly in children and people with atopic dermatitis – and suspected cross-reactions with certain perfume ingredients. In some people, it may aggravate pre-existing skin problems, even at concentrations that comply with legislation.

Finally, Homosalate and Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) are occasionally mentioned in the literature as possible irritants or sensitizers – although to a much lesser extent than the others mentioned. The risk of these ingredients depends largely on the concentration, the formulation and, not least, the vulnerability of the individual skin type. This is where it becomes clear that it is not enough to look at one substance in isolation. It is the whole product that determines how the skin reacts over time.

This brings us to something that is gaining increasing attention in the cosmetics world: the skin microbiome.

 

 

The skin microbiome – and why it matters
The increasing focus on the skin microbiome is no coincidence. It is the natural microorganisms – bacteria, fungi and other microbes – that live on our skin and help maintain its health and stability. A well-functioning microbiome protects against external influences, reduces inflammation and supports the skin's natural barrier function.

The problem arises when the balance is disrupted. This can happen through products with high alcohol content, strong preservatives or an overly occlusive formulation that creates an environment where beneficial microorganisms have a harder time thriving.

For people with sensitive skin, the consequences can be particularly obvious – but it can also be felt quickly for acne-prone skin. An imbalance in the microbiome can create better conditions for more aggressive, inflammatory pimples. It is not necessarily the amount of bacteria, but their composition that tips the balance and worsens the condition.

Therefore, skin tolerance is not just about individual ingredients. It is about the whole: the oil level, the type of filters, the choice of emulsifiers and preservatives, the alcohol content – ​​and ultimately, how the entire product interacts with the skin's own mechanisms.

When choosing sunscreen, you shouldn't just look at the level of protection or SPF number. It's just as important to find a product that not only avoids disrupting the microbiome - but at best supports it.

And that's precisely why it's so important to choose sunscreens that are formulated with respect for the skin's complexity. Not just with a focus on high SPF, but also with consideration for irritation, allergy risk and microbial balance.

Modern filters and technologies – when sunscreen becomes an active player
When you look at the market today, it is clear that there are filters that are much better suited to skin prone to acne, irritation or allergies. In particular, some of the newer generations of UV filters differ significantly from the older ones, both in terms of skin tolerance and the way they can be incorporated into the formulation.

Many of these modern filters no longer require heavy oil to function stably. This makes it possible to produce lighter, more skin-friendly formulations that are less likely to clog pores or leave a greasy film on the skin. And it is precisely this – the overall experience and interaction with the skin – that is crucial to how sensitive or acne-prone skin, in particular, reacts to sun protection.

The reactions seen to sunscreen can be roughly divided into three main causes:

• direct irritation from an ingredient
• a classic contact allergy
• and a photoallergic reaction

The last one is perhaps the most overlooked. A photoallergic reaction occurs when an ingredient in a product becomes allergenic after being activated by sunlight – typically UVA. It may resemble sun dermatitis, but has a different mechanism and only requires small amounts of the problematic substance. Classic examples of this type of reaction are seen with certain benzophenones and PABA derivatives – the same substances that are also known to cause common contact allergies.

Interestingly, it is rarely the new UV filters that are the problem. More often, it is the substances used around the filters – preservatives, perfumes, alcohol, stabilizers – that cause irritation or sensitization in sensitive skin. This highlights how important it is to look at the entire formulation, not just the filters themselves.

A technology developed to avoid precisely those pitfalls
Raz Skincare's Invisible Face Fluid SPF30 and SPF50+ sunscreens are formulated with these challenges in mind. Here, the UV filters are encapsulated in tiny fat bubbles – liposomes – a technology also used in medical and dermatological preparations to ensure effective, even and targeted distribution of active ingredients.

The encapsulation means that the filters do not need to be dissolved in oil. Instead, they can be worn in an ultra-light, oil-free formulation that almost feels like a serum – and does not sit on the skin as a greasy layer. The pores are allowed to breathe. The skin's balance is not disturbed.

But the technology doesn't stop there. The formulation of Raz Skincare's Invisible Face Fluid sunscreens also incorporates a microbiome booster, based on prebiotics, which supports the skin's own good bacteria and helps maintain a healthy microbiome balance - even under UV exposure.

At the same time, the skin is stimulated to increase its own production of microbial melanin – a natural form of pigment that acts as a biological photoprotector. This means that the skin is strengthened from within to better handle UV rays. An advanced approach that not only protects, but actively collaborates with the skin.

Sunscreen formulated for those with something at stake
If you've ever had trouble with sunscreen – whether it's breakouts, dryness, itching or reactions – then this is where Invisible Face Fluid sets itself apart. The product was created with one goal in mind: to eliminate what we know can cause imbalance.

•        No greasy oils.
•         No occlusion.
•        No perfume, essential oils or alcohol.
•        No known sensitizers.
•         And high, documented UVA protection.

The sunscreen is marked with the UVA circle, which is the EU's guarantee that the UVA protection is at least one third of the UVB level - and it also has the PA++++ marking, which is the Asian system for high UVA coverage.